City noise is exhausting. Whether you’re trying to focus in your downtown office, sleep in your condo near the nightlife district, or just have a phone call without competing with delivery trucks, the right windows can be a game-changer.
Here’s the thing: “soundproof” windows aren’t actually soundproof (sorry!). But they can dramatically reduce noise when done right. Let’s figure out what works for your situation without getting lost in technical jargon or overspending.
Quick Picks by Your Noise Problem
Busy street with traffic and pedestrians: Go with laminated glass in an insulated unit—think 6mm glass, 12-16mm air gap, then 4mm glass with an acoustic layer. Make sure the frame seals are airtight.
Near transit or industrial areas: You need bigger air gaps and heavier glass to tackle those low rumbles. Look for OITC ratings here, not just STC.
Living near bars and restaurants: Same laminated setup as above, but pay extra attention to doors and any gaps around the frame. Sound finds every little crack.
Conference rooms or studios: You’ll want higher performance ratings and laminated glass on the interior side too.
How This Actually Works
Think of sound reduction like a three-step defense:
Mass blocks sound. Heavier glass simply stops more noise from getting through.
Damping absorbs vibration. That’s where laminated glass comes in—it has a special layer that turns sound vibrations into tiny amounts of heat.
Air gaps interrupt sound waves. Two panes with space between them work way better than one thick pane.
Here’s what most people miss: your frame and seals matter just as much as the glass itself. Amazing glass with lousy seals performs like mediocre glass.
The Ratings That Actually Matter
STC (Sound Transmission Class): Best for speech, office chatter, and mid-range frequencies. Use this for most residential and office projects.
OITC (Outdoor-Indoor Transmission Class): Includes those low-frequency rumbles from traffic, trains, and HVAC systems. If you’re dealing with bass-heavy noise, this is your number.
Quick rule: Traffic complaints? Check OITC. Privacy concerns? Check STC.
Your Options from Basic to Best
Good enough for most situations: Standard insulated glass with equal thickness panes (like 6mm on both sides), decent seals, and a quality frame.
Better performance: Mix up the glass thickness—maybe 6mm on one side, 4mm laminated on the other, with a bigger air gap. This spreads out the frequencies where sound can sneak through.
Best you can get: Double-laminated glass (laminated on both sides) with a big air gap, or add a second window inside your existing one. This tackles everything from low rumbles to high-pitched noise.
Don’t Forget the Frame (Seriously)
Choose frames with continuous gaskets and thermal breaks. During installation, make sure there’s proper sealant all around the perimeter—especially where the window meets the sill.
And here’s where people get tripped up: sound finds the weakest link. Check your electrical outlets, vents, and even the spaces between window sections. You can have perfect glass and still get noise leaking through a poorly sealed outlet nearby.
When Full Replacement Isn’t an Option
Retrofit the glass: Sometimes you can swap in acoustic laminated glass in your existing frame, if the weight and size work out.
Add interior glazing: Install a second window inside your existing one. This works incredibly well for older buildings and low-frequency noise.
Upgrade seals and gaskets: Often overlooked but can make a real difference, especially on operable windows.
What to Expect Cost and Timeline-Wise
Design phase: Plan on 1-2 weeks for site review and getting the right specifications.
Lead times: Laminated and custom glass takes longer to manufacture, so plan ahead.
Budget tip: Try asymmetrical glass with one laminated pane before jumping to exotic solutions. Often gets you 80% of the benefit at 60% of the cost.
Common Questions
Are they really soundproof? No, but they can reduce noise dramatically. Think “much quieter” rather than “silent.”
Do those acoustic films work? They help a little with certain frequencies, but laminated glass with proper air gaps works much better.
Is triple glazing always better? Not necessarily. Smart asymmetrical double glazing often outperforms balanced triple glazing for speech frequencies.
Getting Started
The best approach? Tell us about your specific noise issues and building situation. We can recommend a solution that actually fits your needs and budget, rather than just selling you the most expensive option.
Every situation is different, and the right answer depends on your specific noise sources, building constraints, and how much quiet you actually need.
Ready to explore your options? Let’s talk about what would work best for your project.
